Chuc Mung Nam Moi (Happy New Year)

Hi Folks and CHUC MUNG NAM MOI to you all,

We are back in Hanoi for a few hours before catching the overnight train (and missing the New Year's Festivities) down south to Hue.

Thank-you all for your well wishes and for your thoughts of safety with the advent of the tsunami. It's been extremely sad and frightening to hear the news of so many deaths. My thoughts are for their loved ones at this time.

Today has been spent out in a few of the local handicraft villages. The first specialised in making pottery.. really interesting.. especially when Mich started getting involved in pouring the moulds!

Next was a paper printing village where the artist was 15th generation with his family performing the same art from the 16th centuary. We got some lovely prints depicting the local sumo wrestling (for me!) and a scholar returning home (for Mich). The rice paper is made out of tree bark, and brushed with ground seashells and rice gluten for the luminesence.

Lastly we went to a silk weaving village and watch the coccoons being unravelled, spun, and woven into amazing fabrics!.. The scarfs, handbags, dresses, etc were so beautiful.

The last few days have been spent on the coast cruising the 3000 islands of Ha Long Bay. Unfortunately it has only been 6 degrees, so a wonderful romantic cruise around the limestone islands was a little chilly (though extremely beautiful).

Since my last email I have been extremely ill, coming down with a stomach virus, but have now bounced back to 110%. It was heaps of fun puking my guts out inthe most rank toilet I have seen in my life for 12 hours on the train back from Lao Cai!! Then spending 24 hrs delerious in the hotel room whilst Mich was out with the credit card and the shops of Ha Noi (don't worry, she looked after me well too!). Hence, am not looking foward to spending another 18hrs on the train tonight!

I hope that this email finds you all safe and happy!!.. Make lots of promises you cannot keep for the New Year!

Love to you all.Mich and Mel